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L - Ascorbic Acid - Vitamin C is an organic acid with antioxidant properties. The L-enantiomer of ascorbic acid is commonly known as vitamin
Vitamin C is used in skin care products in the form of ascorbic acid.
At a 10% concentration and low ph, ascorbic acid has been shown to
stimulate collagen, decrease wrinkle depth and have lightening effects
on pigmentation. It was thought that a minimum 10% concentration was
required but newer information indicate that lower concentration (5%)
may have benefit.
When Ascorbic acid is applied topically at levels ranging from 0.3-10%, the benefits are:
* Potent antioxidant, particularly in regard to protecting skin cells from UV-induced damage* Delays tumor formation after (animal) skin is exposed to extensive UV damage* Has a low risk of skin sensitization at concentrations up to 10% in the form of ascorbic acid* Reduces transepidermal water loss, thus strengthening skin's barrier response* Promotes collagen production and has the potential to thicken the dermis* Reduces inflammation*
Ascorbic acid at levels of 5% and above has a positive effect on
hyperpigmentation (though the results are not as impressive as
hydroquinone, suggesting a combination of the two would be optimal)* Improves the appearance of sun-damaged skin by strengthening skin's repair mechanisms* Enhances the effectiveness of dermatologist-performed procedures such as peels and microdermabrasion
Vitamin C, 100% L-Ascorbic Acid is very unstable in a pure aqueous solutions, it starts to oxidize immediately, gradually producing color changes (orange/brown shift) and a reduction in activity as it converts to dehydroascorbic acid.
Additional Info: USP
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